homemade café.

you already know how i feel about finding the time for a little repose while traveling, but shtoor in bratislava was way too good not to get a special mention. with the tagline, homemade café, this gem of a spot makes all of its own savories and sweets. if you visit, i dare you not to snuggle up into one of its vintage arm chairs. cait and i gulped down perfect cappuccinos and their buttery pastries had us licking our fingers and wanting more. and no, we did not pass up the opportunity to grab a few tarts for the road. traveler's delight.

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central europe: part III.

BRATISLAVA & BUDAPEST

view from bratislava castle bratislavský hrad

fountain in hviezdoslavovo square | view down a side street, bratislava

boat on the danube, bratislava

slovak philharmonic | slovenská filharmónia, bratislava

bratislava city museum | múzeum mesta bratislavy

during our night-long stay in bratislava, cait and i were lucky enough to have a tour-guide in reading my tea leaves-reader and bratislava-native, radana. she made an otherwise gray day a pure delight by showing us the ins and outs of her hometown. after hiking our way up to bratislavský hrad, we worked out way back to ground level and feasted on bryndzove halusky, potato dumplings smothered in sheep's milk cheese and served up with a side of zincica, fermented sheep's milk! after dinner we ducked into the incredibly cute, cafe verne, for a glass of wine and storytelling. it was just what we needed. 

 and the next day? we hopped on the train to budapest.

széchenyi chain bridge over the danube lánchíd

széchenyi chain bridge lánchíd

sweet treats for sale in buda

budapest castle hill funicular budavári sikló

lamp at budavári palota

matthias church mátyás-templom | lollipops

matthias church mátyás-templom

budapest was the whirlwindiest of the trips we made. we arrived in the late afternoon and ate a nourishing meal of garlic soup and yes, more dumplings, at menza. the next morning found us strolling down the beautiful andrássy way and across the széchenyi chain bridge to buda. we skipped the funicular and hiked up the hill instead--worth it both for listening to buskers along the way and for taking in breathtaking views of the city. march 15 is a national holiday in hungary and it seemed like the whole city was out enjoying the sunshine with us!

tomorrow, a recap post about our favorite cafe in bratislava and then you'll have seen it all! 

other things:

central europe, part I.

central europe, part II.

pause-café.

spinat-schafskäse knödel.

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pause-café.

on the kind of whirlwind trip that my sister cait and i were just on, there can put a lot of pressure to see everything. many travelers pay no attention to the impossibility of the task before them and before even stepping off the train in a new city they're strategizing the fastest route from one cathedral to the next. the soles of their feet already ache from pounding cobble stones in the last city, but they're at it again, elbowing their way through crowds to make sure they've gotten close enough, at least, to the fresco to have it count. 

i get it. i've done this. but there's something to be said for taking a moment to soak in the rhythm of a place in a different kind of way.

cafe sperl in vienna has been offering tourists and locals a welcome respite from sightseeing since 1880.  it would be disingenuous to claim that a stop in the cafe is not a tourist destination in and of itself. it is. but to linger guilt-free over a plate of chocolate cake, to not worry that in stopping to pause for a warm drink you might be missing your one and only opportunity to see klimt in austria*, that's the real treat. when i taught in france, my fellow teachers and i would take mid-morning coffee breaks--pause-café--and i'm a fan of using the same practice while traveling. Sit for a moment, rest your weary feet, and delight in the golden hues and velveteen benches of a cafe in another city. 

*call me a philistine if you will, but that cake was delicious.

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central europe: part II.

VIENNA.

st. peter's church peterskirche | donnerbrunnen fountain

museumsplatz | cait, navigating

naschmarkt awnings | tulips

golden vienna

museumsplatz lamp posts | advertisements

stephansdom | stephansplatz 


highlights: 
*the tram: hop on and take a quick and dirty tour of the city. we needed a break after all the racing we did around prague, and the tram was a welcome respite from the walking.
*naschmart: definitely a spot where even a working-knowledge of german would have been helpful, but gawking at flowers and sweet treats was more than possible regardless of linguistic prowess.
*chocolate: mostly we ate through our austrian chocolate while hungry on trains to other places, but it was certainly a highlight of the trip.
where we ate:
gasthaus pöschl: we read about this place in the new york times 36 hours piece on vienna and it did not disappoint. as a result, cait and i are on a quest to find the pumpkin seed oil used in one of the most glorious salad dressings either of us has ever had.
fruhstuckssalon augustin: this is exactly the sort of spot you want to stumble upon when traveling. tucked away from touristy crowds, it is 100% charming. they have a large selection of traditional austrian dishes served up vegetarian-style. spray roses on every table, stained glass windows, and moody black woodwork, this was my very favorite spot of the trip.
cafe sperl: more on this, later.
where we stayed:
hotel stadthalle: our room looked a tad like something out of snow white and the seven dwarfs and our internet was shaky, but the friendliness and knowledgeability of the staff more than made up for it. also: they're certified eco-friendly and they grow lavender on their roof. what's not to love?

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central europe: part I.

there are two kinds of adventures. the first kind is long and drawn out. you settle down, explore nooks and crannies, dive in so deep you can almost trick yourself into thinking you know a place. the second unfolds more like a whirlwind. it's a pavement-pounding, train-hopping, sight-seeing kind of adventure that leaves you breathless and tired as much as energized and inspired. this last trip definitely falls into the latter category. 4 cities in 8 days. first up: PRAGUE

view into malá strana | an organ grinder on the charles bridge karlův most 

vine gone to seed on the hike up to prague castle pražský hrad | st. vitus cathedral katedrála svatého víta

the view from petřín hill

tram | streetlight and building on ujzed street

metal door | view crossing jiráskův most
trdelník

terracotta roof in the jewish quarter josefov

sweet treats at chococafe on liliova street | vintage czech postcards

sidewalk stones

train platform | glimpse at the old station

highlights: 
*mala strana: it's czech for "lesser town," but don't let the translation fool you into thinking it's not worth a visit. we liked tooling through the streets in the evening after dark. and the walk back over the charles bridge was delightful.
*petřín hill observation tower: i'm seriously afraid of heights, but the view of the city from the top was breathtaking and definitely worth the emotional energy.
*the municipal house obecní dům: gorgeous to look at and host to a fancy cafe. next time, we'd skip the breakfast and dive head-first into the dessert cart.
confessions:
prague was a little bit tough for vegetarians. we ate our weight in pastries and staropramen and are not ashamed to admit we found solace in vegetarian and italian restaurants. goulash is not for everyone.
where we stayed:
jurys inn: simple, clean. what it lacks in charm it makes up for in proximity to city-center and foamy cappuccinos.
czechinn: clean, modern, affordable. we stayed here just one night. highly recommended, if slightly far afield.

special thanks to olivia and to rachel and d. for fantastic suggestions. you guys are good.

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ahoj!

just dropping in to say a quick hello with photos shot by phone. candy colored buildings, blue skies, and teeny tiny cobblestones. there's lots more where these came from, but i'll give a proper update when i get back. hope things are sunny where you are.

e.

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